Getting around Vietnam without wasting days

The country is long, about 1,700 kilometres end to end, so the first decision is what to fly over. A domestic flight between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is €25 to €55 one way and takes two hours against a day and a half on the ground, so if your route spans north and south, fly the big gap and travel the short ones. Book the plane a few weeks out, because the cheap fares sell first.

For shorter legs the train is the pleasure. The reunification line runs the coast, and the Da Nang to Hue stretch over the Hai Van Pass is one of the best rail hours in Asia for a €3 to €5 seat. Overnight sleepers, like Hanoi to Sapa's jump-off at Lao Cai, are €12 to €18 and save you a hotel night. Sleeper buses cover the same routes for a little less but are cramped, so pay the small premium for the train where there is one.

In town, use the Grab app for bikes and cars: a short bike hop is €1 to €2 and a city car ride is €2 to €5, all metered so there is nothing to haggle. Renting a motorbike is €5 to €8 a day if you are confident and properly licensed, but the traffic is heavy and the paperwork matters, so do not ride without cover you would actually claim on. Most visitors also need an e-visa arranged before arrival, which is a flat 25 US dollars for 90 days.